The day spent with Cesar and his family provided a most memorable experience.
The day started when Cesar picked us up at 8.30 am.
During the hour or so to reach his home town, San Dionisio Ocotepec, Cesar engaged in an informative discussion of the history of the region and its local economy, especially nearby Matatlan being the Agave/Mezcal “capital” of Mexico.
On arrival at his home, his mother greeted us with a light breakfast of hot chocolate and freshly made delicious bread. The rest of the morning was spent watching and assisting his mother make a robust lunch of tortillas, tosdadas, empanadas, memelas, and delicious salsas.
This was followed by a cooperative effort to make chocolate from cacao beans, involving roasting, peeling, and then grinding them by hand on a special stone.
During a casual walk around town visiting a local artisan’s shop, the town hall, park, church, and his brother’s art gallery, Cesar explained the form of autonomous government used by the Zapotec community for managing the town of roughly 6,ooo, 95% of which are Roman Catholic. Essentially a council of elders appoints members of the community who are obliged to serve one-year, without pay, in the various functions of managing the town.
And finally a visit, via Cesar’s tuk-tuk to a traditional, yet fairly new open air distillery that his friend had built in the surrounding hills and agave plantations to learn first hand the process of harvesting and processing agave to produce a fine mezcal, which we sampled eagerly. His friend is a third generation mezcal distiller.